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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.